Is Queenstown Worth It in July? Our Family's South Island Winter Road Trip

Shelley Hasson
May 27
8 min read

Coming from sunny, Perth, with our mild winters, our kids had never seen snow or experienced a truly cold winter. Getting them onto a mountain and into some proper winter weather had been on the list for a while, and New Zealand delivered - not only with the snow but with a truly magical winter landscape that blew us all away.

Close to home, easy to fly to, and the South Island in July provides exactly the kind of cold we were after. Driving through frost covered valleys with fog sitting on the mountains and ice on every plant was just beautiful. We pulled over constantly. My husband was very patient about this. Mostly.

Two weeks, two hire cars, and more layers than we knew what to do with. Here is how our South Island portion of our New Zealand road trip went.

Winding road amid hills with red shrubs, beneath snow-capped mountains and clear blue sky. Serene and scenic landscape driving from Queenstown to The Snow Farm — The srene and scenic landscape driving from Queenstown to The Snow Farm

Queenstown in July and our Family Road trip

The kids caught their first glimpse of snow from the plane window on the way into Queenstown and the excitement levels went through the roof.

That evening we got settled and my husband did something I thought was very sensible - he practised putting the snow chains on the hire car in the carport so he would know what to do if we needed them. We never did need them but at least he knew how to put them on if we did. The roads around Queenstown are well cleared in winter and perfectly manageable when we visited.

The kids first glimpse of snow was from our flight into Queenstown.

Coronet Peak

We arrived at Coronet Peak a full hour before our lesson started, which we thought would be plenty of time. It was not. Getting fitted for hire gear, buying lift passes, sorting parking - it takes much longer than you'd expect and the queues were rather hefty. We ended up an hour late for our first lesson. Thankfully we were not the only ones and the instructors waited.

I decided I would try skiing, while my husband and the kids tried snowboarding. Within two hours I could get down the beginner run comfortably. The rest of the family were nowhere near that on their snowboards. The next morning, they swapped to skis, I gave them a quick rundown of what I had learned, and within thirty minutes they were skiing down the beginner run. Skiing wins for first timers, it seems to be much easier to pick up for complete first timers.

Hubby then decided we were ready to tackle a green run. I fell off the chairlift before I even got there - no damage done, but it was incredibly embarrassing. Hubby crashed into our son and there were skis and poles scattered down the mountain in every direction. We may have gotten a bit too confident without actually having the ability!

A huge plus at Coronet Peak is that you can night ski which is worth doing - less crowded runs, no queues on the magic carpet or ski lifts, and there is something quite special about being on a mountain at night.

Snow-capped mountains under blue sky, with a lake and green valley in the foreground. A river winds through the landscape, creating a serene mood. From the top of Coronet Peak looking towards Queenstown. — The view from the top of Coronet Peak looking towards Queenstown.

Child snowboarding in pink jacket and helmet on snowy slope, surrounded by people. Blue sky with clouds, relaxed winter scene. — My daughter learning how to snowboard

A skier descends a snowy slope at sunset, with mountains in the background. Other skiers and ski equipment are visible under a colorful sky. — Sunset at Coronet Peak - we stayed for night skiing where the crowd remained very low.

The Snow Farm

We felt like our time at Coronet Peak had been all lessons and not much play, so we drove out to the Snow Farm for a day, and it was just a genuinely, simple and fun day full of play. It's located about an hour out of Queenstown and the drive itself is spectacular. There are tubes and sleds for everyone, although it's certainly no adrenalin rush - the slope was pretty flat, so we created our own run from the car park to get more speed, but we all had such fun. The day was spent making snowmen and snow angels, sliding down our carpark slope and searching around to find pockets of deeper snow to sink into.

Child in blue hat tubing down a snowy hill under a clear sky. People and buildings in the background, creating a joyful winter scene. — Having the time of her life at The Snow Farm

A person in a pink jacket and beanie smiles while kneeling beside a snowman. Snowy mountains and blue skies are in the background. — Me with our snowman

Shotover Jet

My husband and I had done the Shotover Jet before in summer and loved every minute of it. In July it was a completely different story - well for me anyway. I have never been so cold in my life - the frozen forehead situation was something I was entirely unprepared for and it was so painful that I didn't really enjoy the ride. My husband and the kids on the other hand absolutely loved it. I feel my experience was probably rather unique to me but if you are visiting in winter, rug up as much as you possibly can.

Red jet boat speeds down a turquoise river, under a stone bridge, with passengers in life vests against a rocky, forested backdrop. — The Shotover Jet

Ziptrek Ecotours - Bob's Peak

The Ziptrek Ecotours experience at Bob's Peak was a fabulous experience. We did the Moa Tour which is four ziplines through native beech forest with stunning views of Lake Wakatipu along the way. You launch from steps at each platform which makes it far less daunting than jumping off a platform into...well nothing. Both kids were hanging upside down by their second line. The whole experience takes around two to three hours, and they offer options from two lines up to six, so there is something to suit different ages and thrill levels.

Person in a blue jacket and helmet zip-lining upside down through a forest. Evergreen trees surround the scene, creating an adventurous vibe. — Fearless on the Zipline

The Remarkables

We drove out to have a look at The Remarkables which has an enclosed magic carpet and looked like a great option - just a little further out from Queenstown than Coronet Peak. Worth knowing about if you want to spread your ski days across two mountains. You can get ski passes that cover both mountains too.

Panoramic view of a valley with snow-capped mountains, winding river, and small town below. Clear blue sky and scattered clouds above. — The view from the top of The Remarkables.

Arrowtown

On the drive from the Remarkables to Arrowtown we stopped by a picture-perfect lake reflecting the mountain scene behind it. Incredibly beautiful, and that is one of the things I love about the South Island - there is so much beauty around every corner.

Arrowtown was a lovely little stop on our way to Wanaka. The town dates back to the 1860s gold rush and the original miners' cottages and heritage buildings along Buckingham Street are well preserved. We walked down to the Chinese Settlement by the river - interesting to see but fairly small, so do not expect to spend a lot of time there.

What really got us in Arrowtown was the frost. Coming from Perth we just do not see anything like it. The way ice had formed on everything on the ground - every blade of grass, every surface - was very beautiful and completely new to us.

Snow-capped mountains reflected in a clear lake, with bare trees in the foreground. Blue sky and low clouds create a serene landscape. — Just another beautiful stop on a New Zealand road trip!

Close-up of frost-covered wood chips. The ice crystals are bright white, creating a textured and wintery appearance. — The frost on the ground at Arrowtown

Wanaka

Wanaka is a quaint little town and well worth a couple of nights. We visited the famous Wanaka Tree - the weather did not cooperate for photos, but it is still worth seeing. Puzzling World was a great stop for the kids - we spend the better part of a day here, exploring illusions and tricks, and the kids even spent an hour in the maze making sure they had found every single target before they would leave.

The playground opposite the lake is a lovely spot to let the kids run around and burn off some energy. Don't forget when you are in Wanaka you have to try the ice creams from Black Peak - absolutely delicious, even in the middle of winter!

A solitary tree stands in calm water under an overcast sky. Bare branches and the serene lake create a peaceful, reflective mood. — That Wanaka Tree

Person in a colorful jacket playfully "holding" a tilted building with red and white walls. Misty mountain and grass in the background. — Muscles on show at Puzzling World Wanaka

Hand holding a cup of gelato labeled "Black Peak" with a brownie piece, near a lake and cloudy sky. Peaceful, natural setting. — Delicious gelato

The Drive to Mount Cook

The day we drove from Wanaka to Mount Cook was one of the most spectacular days I've ever experienced. Coming through the Lindis Pass it was minus 3 degrees at 11 in the morning and the landscape was unlike anything we had ever seen. Ice on every single tree, fog sitting in the valley, and at one point we spotted a fogbow - a rainbow made entirely of fog. Coming from Perth, we had never seen anything like it. Walking around through the frozen landscape, hearing the ice slowing melting drop by drop off the trees, the ice glittering in the sun it really felt like we had jumped into the pages of a children's story book. My husband was very patient about the number of times I made him pull over for photos and to explore. He did not complain...much.

A shadow stretches along a frosty dirt road under a clear blue sky, with a white rainbow - made of fog, flanked by barren trees and fields, with misty hills in the background. — A fogbow!

Frost-covered grass in focus against a blurred background of more grasses and a blue sky, creating a wintry, serene mood. — The beauty in the simple things

Omarama Clay Cliffs

We nearly drove straight past the Clay Cliffs at Omarama and I am so glad we did not. In those conditions they were extraordinary - every plant iced over, fog sitting right on the top of the cliffs, following their outline, with the sun filtering through. The cliffs themselves were much bigger and more dramatic than I expected too. Absolutely worth the stop.

Mist-covered rocky cliffs rise behind frost-covered bushes under a clear, blue sky. The scene feels serene and ethereal. — Clay Cliffs at Omarama where other worldly during our visit.

A father and son stand on a rocky slope against jagged towering clay cliffs under a bright blue sky. Sparse greenery is visible on the ground. — The Clay Cliffs were rather impressive.

Lake Tekapo

We could not see Lake Tekapo at all on the way through which we were a little sad about as it is famous for its brilliant blue colour. The weather had other ideas.

Mount Cook - Hooker Valley Track

We pulled into the Mount Cook car park holding our breath and the clouds had not yet come over Mount Cook, so we started walking the Hooker Valley Track immediately. In hindsight we should have been better prepared - hungry kids and half empty water bottles is not the ideal way to start a three-hour return walk. We wanted to get to the end and we did, despite some very loud protests from the seven-year-old for the majority of the walk. He eventually made it to the end, and it was worth every step. The mountains were enormous, the river running alongside the path was beautiful, and the whole valley felt completely wild and untouched. Three hours later we made it back and checked into our hotel, exhausted, starving, and completely happy.

Three people in winter gear hike on a rocky trail with snowy mountains and lush greenery in the background, under a clear blue sky at Mount Cook national Park, New Zealand. — Walking along the Hooker Valley Track at Mount Cook

Suspension bridge over rocky terrain leads to snow-covered mountains under a clear blue sky. A person in blue walks towards the peaks along the Hooker Valley Track Mount Cook National Park. — A suspension bridge along the Hooker Valley Track

Mountain landscape with a snowy peak and rocky path beside a frozen lake under a blue sky with clouds, evoking a serene mood. Mount Cook is located in the back ground — We made it to the end of the Hooker Valley Track!

Rocky riverbed with turquoise stream leads to snow-capped mountains under a clear blue sky. Rugged terrain and serene landscape. — The views along the track

The Drive from Mount Cook to Christchurch

The next morning as we drove out of Mount Cook the fog had lifted off Lake Tekapo and there it was - that brilliant blue water we had missed the day before. We got so lucky. It was every bit as stunning as we remembered, and well worth stopping for.

We pulled in at the Church of the Good Shepherd for a look around. It is a beautiful little spot - or it would be without the hundreds of rock towers people have built all over the surrounding area!

From there we drove through to Christchurch and checked into the airport hotel for an early night before our flight back to Perth the following morning.

Sunlight streaming through pine branches over a turquoise lake. Mountain range in the background under a clear blue sky. — Lake Tekapo in all its glory

Is New Zealand Worth visiting in July with kids?

Without a doubt.

The South Island in winter is one of the most spectacular places I have ever been, and watching our kids experience it for the first time made it even more special. Coming from Perth where the landscape is mostly flat and the winters are mild, it was all new - the heavy frost, the fog, the mountains, the snow. It was an amazing holiday for us all.

For families with kids, there are some real highlights to be had. Learning to ski together at Coronet Peak, sliding down a self-made run at the Snow Farm, ziplining through the forest on Bob's Peak, getting lost in mazes and finishing longer than expected hikes.

Queenstown is brilliant and absolutely worth your time, but do not make the mistake of staying there for your entire trip. The drive to Mount Cook alone is worth the hire car. The Clay Cliffs in the fog, the fogbow on the Lindis Pass, Lake Tekapo on a clear morning - things that will stay with you for a really long time.

The roads are manageable, the crowds are lighter than summer, and the winter landscape is stunning. If a South Island winter road trip has been sitting on your list, I recommend adding it to the top of your list!

Cityscape with a blue lake and snowy mountains in the background. Cable cars descend from a hill, with islands in the center of the lake. — View from the top of Bob's Peak, Queenstown

About the Author

Shelley Hasson is a Perth-based family travel specialist and founder of The Family Travel Studio, specialising in bucket list holidays for Australian families. Certified specialist in Japan, Hawaii, USA, Cook Islands, Singapore, New Zealand, Hong Kong, Disney Cruises and Princess Cruises.